Jewelry: adorning yourself with art in today's Quebec

Crafts are vectors of creation within Quebec society. They are at the heart of Quebec art, in constant evolution, making ancestral techniques topical subjects. It is through the institutions that embody them that the knowledge and know-how that keep these disciplines going through the decades are transmitted. This series of articles is intended to be a presentation of each of the disciplines that make up the crafts and that promote Quebec creativity. The first article in the series focused on the profession of ceramist . We continue our discovery through jewelry.

Archeology shows that jewelry has been part of our daily lives for millennia ( Baratte et al .). But what does Quebec jewelry look like these days? This article, in line with our series on crafts , addresses the issue thanks to the contribution of four local companies, MYEL DESIGN, EMD Joaillière, Flamme en rose inc. and Lalumière jewelry.

Under the projectors

MYEL DESIGN

Established in Montreal, MYEL DESIGN is a company that has been dedicated to jewelry since 2013. Making jewelry that is both delicate and refined, it seeks to create pieces that will harmonize with all occasions. The goal of the company is to offer well-being to its customers. Her desire is to create jewelry in the image of “a second skin that you don't want to leave”. It is through the finesse of her designs that the designer tries to “create the new classics of modern jewelry”. Offering made-to-measure, especially for engagement rings, the company will open a salon in mid-February for a warmer and more accessible customer experience. It will then be possible to make an appointment to meet the craftswoman. MYEL DESIGN is also “the democratization of fine jewelry, particularly among customers between 25 and 35 years old”.

Lalumiere Jewelry

A company located in Sainte-Sabine, Lalumière Joaillerie specializes in sterling silver jewellery. A constantly bubbling creator, Marie-Claude Lalumière is constantly inspired by the environment in which she lives to design her jewellery, produced in limited quantities. Combining spontaneity and creative freedom, the craftswoman works a lot on texture in the realization of her masterpieces. It is by working the material that he comes up with the idea of ​​the next piece of jewellery. As she puts it so well: “The absence of barriers allows me to explore, to abandon myself and to shape the material resulting in a product that is sometimes raw, sometimes soft. Inspired by texture, I play with the elements, seeking to find a balance between the structure and the fragments used. »

Flamme en rose inc.

Flamme en rose inc. is a jewelry store founded in Montreal and run by two women. Everything is made on site, in the workshop, and the possibilities of bespoke are numerous. The company stands out in particular for the principle of jewelry transformation, where a second life can be given to a cherished piece of jewelry. What Audrée Michaud and Michèle Côté want in their business is to tell a story. Each of their collections has its own story and the craftswomen want their clientele to appropriate the pieces and build their own story. For them, values ​​and experience are at the heart of a jewel and they wish to "transmit theirs through their ". They underline it with precision: “it is the emotional contribution of the customers linked to the personal value of their jewels which nourishes us”.

EMD Jeweler

Emilie Dell'Aniello is the entrepreneur behindEMD Joaillière . The only member of her team, she manages all the creation and entrepreneurship tasks. It devotes its efforts to two types of jewellery: small series, pieces intended for sale and which are presented at trade fairs, and contemporary jewellery, unique pieces devoted to exhibition all over the world. This last practice is crucial in her creative process and the craftswoman wishes to return to it a little more in the future. She “likes to explore new techniques, new textures”. It follows "a guideline, but always different parts. Emilie Dell'Aniello is an entrepreneur "passionate about what she does, passionate about all aspects ". Her job is a source of pleasure for her, because, as a daily creator, she likes this absence of routine, this freedom and this flexibility that the profession of jeweler offers her. The pieces of EMD Joaillière, of a certain simplicity, of a refined style and in line with minimalism, charm with their original shapes.

The theory behind the practice

In modern jewelry, two major techniques exist: wax and drawing, and 3D printing. The first is that taught in jewelry schools. The artist fashions a wax model. This model will then become a mold where the metal will be poured to shape the next jewels. This process is characterized by manual work from start to finish, with no real intermediary.

In the case of 3D printing, technology is put to good use in the creation of jewelry. The artist first draws the jewel he wants to create. The drawing, once digitized, makes it possible to make a 3D modeling of the jewel on the computer before its production. This can be particularly interesting in the case of bespoke, where the client can have a more concrete overview of the final result. Subsequently, the model is printed in three dimensions using wax. The jeweler therefore creates from this wax model a mold in which the future jewels will be cast.

The main materials used are precious metals, more particularly gold. This one comes in three types, i.e. yellow, white and pink, and silver. Platinum is also sometimes used. The creators then complete with precious stones, in particular diamonds. These fall into two categories: Canadian diamonds, natural diamonds whose extraction meets specific standards; and lab-grown, synthetic diamonds that are more environmentally friendly and ethical than natural diamonds produced overseas.

The road ahead

To work in jewellery, several craftsmen follow the course offered by the crafts technique in jewellery. The latter is offered at the École de joaillerie de Québec , in collaboration with the Cégep Limoilou, and at the École de joaillerie de Montréal , in collaboration with the Cégep du Vieux Montréal. However, the routes are varied and sometimes unconventional. Myriam Élie, founder of MYEL, is one of these self-taught entrepreneurs. It was after having her jewelry stolen that she started making it. She gradually set up her business and now does business with jewelers to make her jewelry. In addition to Myriam Élie's atypical career, there are several training courses with the aim of perfecting her mastery of her art.

As for Emilie Dell'Aniello of EMD Joaillière, it was after starting out in restoration that she turned to art, when the constraints became too restrictive. After taking various craft courses, she took a particular interest in jewelry and enrolled at the École de joaillerie de Montréal. Emilie embarked on the trade in her first year and completed her training with a year of study at Concordia University in ceramics and textile construction. The craftswoman also mentions the importance of the Labo de Noël Guyomarc'h in her artistic approach.

Marie-Claude Lalumière, from Lalumière Joaillerie, began her studies in the arts to finally go into health and become a nurse. Years later, feeling that the opportunities to showcase her creativity were lacking, she returned to the arts and did her technique in jewelry at the École de joaillerie de Montréal.

In any case, it is really the passion for jewelry that guides these artists. Michèle Côté and Audrée Michaud, the duo behind Flamme en rose inc., demonstrate this well. They have shared a great interest in jewelry making since their youth and they always knew that they would study jewelry and start their business.

Go into jewelry; the essentials

Several qualities are necessary to get into jewelry. Among them are meticulousness, patience, creativity and passion for the whole artistic side. Indeed, each jewel requires careful work to be able to make it an exceptional piece. This involves working on “very small pieces for a very long time,” says Emilie Dell'Aniello (EMD Joaillière). However, the work does not stop there when you are self-employed; there is still the entrepreneurial side which also requires certain qualities. Organization, perseverance and resourcefulness to deal with all eventualities are examples. Such a job can experience ups and downs, and you should not give up everything despite adversity.

There are many things that cannot be learned on the school benches. It is when we start that we are confronted with it. The reality is sometimes more difficult and you have to be prepared so as not to be caught off guard. That's why I asked the four entrepreneurs what advice they would give to someone considering getting into jewelry or, more broadly, fine crafts. As the company MYEL DESIGN mentioned, it is necessary to have a good team, to surround yourself with people who will complement you and on whom you can count.

The founders of Flamme en rose inc. mention the importance of having the courage to go into business and seize opportunities. They insist on the importance of testing the market as soon as possible and not waiting until you have finished your studies, or until everything is perfect in the company or on the website. You have to design jewelry and try to sell it. If you do not know the market before launching your business, you are not guaranteed to have a clientele.

Marie-Claude Lalumière (Lalumière Joaillerie) insists on the passion which is, according to her, the engine that allows us to persevere in a sometimes difficult environment. Finally, Emilie Dell'Aniello (EMD Joaillière) would like to point out that, in addition to the creative aspect, the entrepreneurial side often takes up most of the working time. You have to be willing to compromise on pay and schedules, as well as be willing to invest. The more time and money you invest in your company, the more likely it is to be profitable. You also have to consider your long-term monetary management since, as mentioned earlier, owning your business very often means not having a stable income.

If something binds these entrepreneurs, it is certainly this motivation which stems not only from a passion for jewelry, but also from a real joy in giving. This diversity of styles shows to what extent jewelery is in vogue in Quebec, but also to what extent Quebec art is an effervescent environment. This reminds us that art, although always in motion and transformation, crosses all ages and all eras.

I would like to thank MYEL DESIGN, EMD Joaillière, Flamme en rose inc. and Lalumière joaillerie for their contribution to this article. The latter is not only based on the interviews they generously granted me, but it would have been impossible without their contribution.

Reviewed By Melanie

Bibliography

Baratte, S., Metzger, C., Possémé, É., Taburet-Delahaye, E., & Ziegler, C. (nd). Jewelry. In Universalis . Retrieved from http://www.universalis-edu.com.ezproxy.cegeplimoilou.ca/encyclopedia/bijoux/

Cover photo: Flamme en rose inc.